Missoltini

Missoltini: The Ancient Art of Cured Lake Shad

Known in local dialect as Misultitt or Missultin, dried shad has been a cornerstone of Lake Como’s diet for centuries. This specialized curing process was born from necessity, allowing fishermen to preserve their catch for over a year long before modern refrigeration.

The Preparation: From Brine to "Yawning"

The journey of a Missoltino begins in May and June with the arrival of the Agoni (shad). The traditional preparation is a meticulous craft:

• Salting: The fish are cleaned and layered with sea salt (approx. 80g per kg of fish) for 24 hours to form a natural brine.
• The "Sbadaee" (The Yawn): After rinsing, the fish are strung together. A small bamboo reed called a sbadaee is inserted into the mouth of each fish to keep it open, a term that literally means "yawn" in the local dialect.
• Sun-Drying: The strings of fish are hung in the open air for several days until perfectly dried.

The Pressing Ritual

Once dry, the heads are removed, and the fish are packed into a Missolta—a traditional wooden or tin bucket. They are arranged in a fan shape, belly-up, and layered with fragrant, mature laurel (bay) leaves. The magic happens under pressure:

A heavy press is used to squeeze out excess oil. This step is critical: the emerging oil must be removed periodically to prevent the fish from re-absorbing it and spoiling. Whether using a manual screw press or a continuous-pressure system, the fish slowly cure until October, transforming into a savory delicacy with a deep, complex flavor.

How to Enjoy Like a Local

The best way to experience Missoltini is the fisherman’s way. Lightly grill the cured fish and serve them with a drizzle of high-quality olive oil and a splash of vinegar. The salty, intense flavor of the Missultin is perfectly balanced when paired with a thick slice of toasted Polenta and a glass of local red wine.