Brienno

Brienno: The Vertical Medieval Gem

Nestled on the western shore of Lake Como, with the dramatic peaks of Alpe Comana and Mount Binate standing guard behind it, Brienno is a masterclass in medieval preservation. Directly across the water from the town of Nesso, this village is defined by its ancient stone houses built into the lake’s edge and a labyrinth of narrow streets, shaded porticos, and steep stairways. While Brienno has Celtic and Roman roots, it gained prominence in the Middle Ages as an ally of Barbarossa during the ten-year war against Milan, later becoming a fief under the Gallio family during Spanish rule. Despite facing a significant flood in July 2011, the village has meticulously preserved its charm, remaining a premier destination for summer tourism.

Sacred History and the Spirit of Resistance

At the entrance of the village, visitors are greeted by the Church of St. Anna, a historic sanctuary featuring a stunning 11th-century Romanesque bell tower—one of the oldest on the lake. Near the shoreline, the Church of Sts. Nazario and Celso houses a wealth of artistic treasures, including frescoes by the master Gian Paolo Recchi, 16th-century stained-glass windows, and an exquisite altarpiece by Andrea de Passeri.

In the churchyard stands the moving War Memorial. This bronze statue of an Alpino (alpine soldier) holding a stone commemorates a legendary episode from the war in Libya. The Morbegno Regiment, largely made up of local men, found themselves surrounded and out of ammunition; refusing to surrender, they fought back using only the rocks and stones of the earth—a testament to the fierce resilience of the people of Brienno.

Military Heritage: The Cadorna Line

On the edge of town, near the cemetery, the Church of the Immaculate Conception offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the lake. Beneath the square in front of the parish lies a hidden piece of World War I history: a fortification of the Cadorna Line. This defensive system, built to protect northern Italy, remains remarkably intact. Today, visitors can still explore the original bunkers, tunnels, and service areas that once formed a crucial part of the region's military defense.