Varenna

Varenna: The Jewel of the Central Lake

In Varenna, Lake Como reveals its full majesty. From its shores, the tip of Bellagio juts out into the center of the lake, while the towns of Cadenabbia, Menaggio, and Acquaseria dot the opposite coast. To the north, the vast azure waters seem to lap against the towering terraces of the Mesolcina mountain range. The village itself is a charming labyrinth of steep, narrow alleys that descend toward the lake, where colorful houses reflect in the water—a scene reminiscent of the picturesque coastal towns of Liguria.

The history of Varenna over the centuries

With prehistoric origins evidenced by Gallo-Roman remains, Varenna achieved communal independence during the Middle Ages. During the historic Ten Years' War, it fought against Como and famously provided refuge to the survivors of Comacina Island after its destruction. Even then, Varenna was renowned across Europe for its unique black-and-white marble. Near the Chiesa di San Giorgio, along Via IV Novembre, lies the entrance to Villa Cipressi (formerly Villa Isimbrandi). Now a renowned hotel, it features magnificent terraced gardens connected by a grand staircase. Just beyond is the legendary Villa Monastero. Its name originates from its founding as a Cistercian convent for the nuns of Santa Maria Maddalena. Among its artistic treasures, the most notable is The Clemency of Titus, the unfinished final masterpiece by sculptor G.B. Comolli (1830).

Beyond Varenna: Fiumelatte and Esino Lario

A short trip leads to the village of Fiumelatte ("River of Milk"), named for the frothy white waters of its seasonal torrent. Gushing from a cave only in the spring, it is one of the shortest rivers in Italy. From Varenna, you can also ascend to Esino Lario (913 m / 2,995 ft), known as the "Pearl of the Grigne" for its spectacular alpine position. Along the way, a short detour leads to Vezio Castle (383 m / 1,256 ft), an ancient medieval tower once said to be the residence of the Lombard Queen, Theodelinda.